Most people during their childhood or teens see a photo of Machu Picchu and they say to themselves, “Where is that? I want to go there some day.” I had the opportunity to visit Machu Picchu with my close friend Andy back in 2003, but it is one of those places everyone should visit at some point in their lives. As Liz and I planned our South America trip we decided this was one place to stop by so she could check it off of her list.
There are a number of ways to get to Machu Picchu but we decided that we wanted to complete another trek there. Prior to arriving in Cusco we did some research at South American Explorers in Lima for an alternative Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu. A lot of people make it their goal to hike “The Inca Trail” but the reality of it is that it is crowded and there are just as good of alternative treks out there. Only 500 people are allowed to hike the so called Inca Trail which makes it more like Disney World in my opinion than a natural outdoor experience. After researching various hikes and companies we decided on a reputable one with good reviews and two treks we were interested in. Turns out that neither of the two treks we liked fit our schedule so we had to basically pick the one that did. The trek we chose is called Salkantay and it begins in Mollepata and ends in Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. The trek itself lasts 5 days and we had heard good things of this one as well.
This would be a slightly different experience than what we had done before. In this case you pay to have a guide, cook, and porters to set up tents and secure your backpack on horses that go along. Although we have enjoyed our previous challenges we figured it would be nice to be catered to this go round.
The plan was for a company van to pick us up at 5:30 AM so we could drive to the trailhead. I was in and out of it that night and at one point woke up at 4:50 just before Liz’s alarm was to go off at 5. I drifted off again only to wake up and think to myself “I haven’t been asleep for 10 minutes.” I shot up, looked at Liz’s watch and saw that it was 5:23. Luckily most of our things were packed so we hopped out of bed, threw the rest of our belongins in our bags and raced out to the street just as the van was pulling up. Some people might not have cared about being late but we did not want to make a bad first impression.
There are a number of ways to get to Machu Picchu but we decided that we wanted to complete another trek there. Prior to arriving in Cusco we did some research at South American Explorers in Lima for an alternative Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu. A lot of people make it their goal to hike “The Inca Trail” but the reality of it is that it is crowded and there are just as good of alternative treks out there. Only 500 people are allowed to hike the so called Inca Trail which makes it more like Disney World in my opinion than a natural outdoor experience. After researching various hikes and companies we decided on a reputable one with good reviews and two treks we were interested in. Turns out that neither of the two treks we liked fit our schedule so we had to basically pick the one that did. The trek we chose is called Salkantay and it begins in Mollepata and ends in Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu. The trek itself lasts 5 days and we had heard good things of this one as well.
This would be a slightly different experience than what we had done before. In this case you pay to have a guide, cook, and porters to set up tents and secure your backpack on horses that go along. Although we have enjoyed our previous challenges we figured it would be nice to be catered to this go round.
The plan was for a company van to pick us up at 5:30 AM so we could drive to the trailhead. I was in and out of it that night and at one point woke up at 4:50 just before Liz’s alarm was to go off at 5. I drifted off again only to wake up and think to myself “I haven’t been asleep for 10 minutes.” I shot up, looked at Liz’s watch and saw that it was 5:23. Luckily most of our things were packed so we hopped out of bed, threw the rest of our belongins in our bags and raced out to the street just as the van was pulling up. Some people might not have cared about being late but we did not want to make a bad first impression.
Nevado Salkantay
We made our way about 5 hours up a valley, stopping at some Inca ruins along the way to have breakfast, and then began our trek. Our guides name was Guido and we were lucky to only have one other trekker in our group. Simon is from Sunderland, England in the north and he was a great guy to have along for some added comic relief. Some groups unfortunately have 13 or so people which leads to alot of waiting around for the slower hikers. Guido was a Peruvian from the south who had studied anthropology and was very knowledgable of history, flaura and fauna along the entire journey. Our cooks name was Rolly and he was a local Quechuan who cooked our great meals. Three members of Rolly’s family helped with horses and food as well.
The trekking itself was challenging at times but the days themselves were fairly short. We would have periodic breaks and lunch was a large meal that took an hour at least. We would get up at about 6:30 with coffee or tea brought right to our tents. We would then have breakfast and begin hiking around 8:00. Our days would end anywhere between 4 and 6.
The trekking itself was challenging at times but the days themselves were fairly short. We would have periodic breaks and lunch was a large meal that took an hour at least. We would get up at about 6:30 with coffee or tea brought right to our tents. We would then have breakfast and begin hiking around 8:00. Our days would end anywhere between 4 and 6.
Piece of cake
The new challenge for us this time was altitude. Not that I ever thought so in the past, but I surely realize now that I am not cut out to be a mountaineer due to the lack of air at these elevations. We began our hike around 3,900 meters and you could definitely see and feel yourself moving more slowly. On day 2 we hiked to a pass at 4,600 meters. We were all moving a bit slower, gasping for air at rests, and we could all feel slight headaches too. The locals, and some tourists as well, will chew cocoa leaves in an effort to reduce hunger and thirst. It also helps with symptoms of altitude sickness. This is not actual cocaine they are chewing but the leaf which can be processed into cocaine along with a number of other substances.
Unfortunately on day 2 Liz was plagued with stomach issues as we made our way to the pass. Parts of this section reminded me of Patagonia as we heard and witnessed more small avalanches. We then began a long descent into rain forest which was a wild transition to see and feel. We were hit by strong rain at one point which made the trails more interesting.
Unfortunately on day 2 Liz was plagued with stomach issues as we made our way to the pass. Parts of this section reminded me of Patagonia as we heard and witnessed more small avalanches. We then began a long descent into rain forest which was a wild transition to see and feel. We were hit by strong rain at one point which made the trails more interesting.
One of us having a great day and the other... 
Offerings to the gods
Guido, Simon and Liz
On day 3 I had the stomach bug which made things unenjoyable for me. Luckily Guido gave me some of the same meds he gave Liz the day before which cleared up our symptoms within an hour or so. We were still making our way down through the valley and forest at this point. On this particular day other groups had caught up with us and the trail was quite crowded. It was quite humorous to observe these other trekkers. Some looked unprepared, bored and unhappy. Some had on designer jeans, one guy had on no shirt even though mosquitos were horrible at times, and one guy stopped and photographed every flower he came across making for a fun slideshow for his future houseguests. That evening we went to the local hot springs and soaked our bones.
View back up to the 4,600 meter pass
Near our campground
The final full day of trekking required us to hike up to another pass where some Incan ruins were located. The weather was hot and humid and the land was tough on our legs. At the top, however, we got out first glimpse of Machu Picchu off in the distance. We then hiked down the mountain and to a train depot where we would catch a ride to Aguas Calientes which is at the base of Machu Picchu. We could only hope that the weather would be as good for day 5 and Machu Picchu as it had been the last few days.
Machu Picchu inbetween us off in the distance
As always if these photos are not enough then please click on the link below:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lizhaske/SalkantayTrek?authkey=Gv1sRgCI64uvK-6dGbhgE
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