Torres del Paine - Feel the Pain and the Beauty

Prior to our trip Liz and I did some research and put together a rough itinerary of places we would like to visit. Torres del Paine National Park in Chile was a must see according to guide books and other travelers´ accounts. The question was, how did we want to see the park. The option of going for a day visit was a possibility, but most travelers experience the beauty of the park by hiking what is called the ¨W¨. The W is typically done in 5 days and trekkers can either camp along the way in marked campgrounds (some free and some at a minor cost), or stay in refugios which offer showers, dorm rooms, food, etc. Although we have gone on day hikes before, neither of us had ever done a 5 day trek but we decided we were up for the challenge. We want to do as much camping as possible while on our trip because it adds a sense of adventure but at the same time cuts down on cost. So before flying down to South America we picked up a tent, sleeping bags, and other essentials to help us survive the Patagonia extremes.

After a 15 hour bus ride from Ushuaia, Argentina we arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile, which would act as our jumping off point. We spent a full day at a hostel in Puerto Natales learning more about the W and what to take in order to be prepared. Everyone we talked to said that it is possible to experience four seasons in one day so be ready for everything. We cruised the town looking for the best deals on dried fruit, nuts, granola bars, dehydrated foods, and other foodstuffs that would keep us nourished during our journey. The next morning we caught a bus for two and a half hours out to the park, then got on a catamaran, and after that began to walk, and walk, and walk.

Rather than giving a day by day account I would like to try to sum up our experience in a few sentences and let the pictures do the rest. Overall the experience was amazing. Everyday our hikes took us through a new setting. It was as though parts of Montana, Colorado, and New Mexico were all wrapped together in this park. Every turn brought something new. We walked up to massive glaciers, under and around monstrous mountains, past cascading waterfalls, traversed rivers, and skipped over bountiful streams. We were almost always in view of one of the many lakes that encompasses the park and the greatest thing was that the natural water was clean enough for us to drink. I can´t tell you how wonderful it was to stop at a stream, fill my bottle, and take a sip of clean, fresh glacial water. It really made me think how sad it is that so much of our earth´s water is unpotable. I believe that all of us should have access to clean water, and of course free WiFi. As we hiked we could hear glaciers shifting and even saw mini avalanches taking place as snow and ice came barreling down mountains. I am concerned that although this is a natural occurrence it is at the same time not a good sign of our earth´s current status. It seemed as though it was happening all too frequently while we were there.

All in total we hiked over 55 miles while carrying packs that had starting weights of 22 and 36 pounds. To be exact in regards to distance, Liz hiked 58 and I hiked 60. Liz didn´t have to get a stretcher or anything for the last two, it was just that I decided to hike up to a lookout and she stayed behind. The one factor I have to point out in all of this too is that we were not simply hiking on flat land. There were a few flat sections but primarily it was up, down, and back up again. We were lucky, however, to have fantastic weather every day we were there which is pretty unheard of. It occasionally rained a bit at night, but each day the sun was shining and the weather was warm. At times the winds were strong enough to push you around the trail but that just made for more of an adventure. There were sections and hours that were tough along the way, especially the day we hiked 17 miles in 10 hours. In the end, however, it was all worth it. We came away with some fantastic memories, made some great friends along the way, and I am happy to say that Liz and I have a new hobby.

If the photos below are not enough for you then please take a look at the following link for more:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lizhaske/TorresDelPaine?authkey=Gv1sRgCLmZv_eo_o6HhwE

Monte Almirante Nieto

Rio Ascencio

Rio Ascencio

Cerro Paine Grande

Glaciar del Frances

Sunset at Campamento Los Cuernos

Glacier Grey


Glacier Grey


Lago Nordenskjold


Valle del Frances

Torres del Paine